Contemporary Life

Tucked away in the northwest corner of the the Burren – which resides on the west coast of Ireland – there is a small town named Ballyvaughan. Ballyvaughan is located in the County Clare along the coast of Galway Bay. It would be easy to drive right through the town and think nothing of it, but do not be fooled by its sleepy demeanor. Ballyvaughan has a rich history and it is highly respected by the less than three hundred people who live there. The town is full of farms and farmers that raise cattle and sheep. However, the area’s main business is tourism and it is reflected all throughout the town. A few of the attractions exist because of the Burren’s foundation which is primarily limestone. The acid rain that frequently smothers the area weathers away about the thickness of a single sheet of paper from the stone each year. Over the years wearing away of the rock has carved out caves and underground rivers in the Burren. The Aillwee cave system is a local attraction in Ballyvaughan that will give you an idea of how old and ever changing the landscape of the Burren really is. Another site just down the road from Ballyvaughan that is also accredited to the area’s copious amounts of limestone is Blackhead hill which is full of fog and treacherous terrain. A section of Ireland’s Wild Atlantic Way – a road that stretches down the west coast of Ireland and provides a rather scenic drive – will take you out of town and to the base of the hill. At the Burren College of Art just down the road from the Aillwee cave you will find an example how medieval people utilized the stone in the area to make their dwellings, or tower houses. Ireland is littered with these tower houses which originally stood several stories tall, but are now mostly half torn down. The tower house that serves as the focal point for the college has been restored to its original state and is open to the public.

In the center of Ballyvaughan you will find several pubs and hotels like Hylands Burren Hotel and Logues Lodge where you can grab a pint of Guinness, a basket of fish and chips, and maybe even a sticky toffee pudding for dessert. For brunch you might want to try a classic Irish breakfast or a one of the many sweet or savory crepes from the very reasonably priced Soda Parlour.  A good watering hole for the late night hours is O’Loclainn’s Irish Whiskey Bar, which I think has a more intimate setting than some of the local pubs. The only food available after nine o’clock that does not come from your refrigerator is going to be from Mr.Kebabs. Mr.Kebabs is the closest thing fast food in the town and serves burgers and curry fries until midnight.

Along with all the eateries in town there is also a grocery store called Spar which you might see some locals hanging around. On Sundays you will find many of the town’s inhabitants at the St. John the Baptist Catholic Church and there will not be a parking spot left in Ballyvaughan. The single gas station in town, affectionately named Emo, only has two pumps, but there is hardly ever a wait to use them. There are a few trinket stores around that have mementos like wool sweaters and stuffed sheep to help you better remember your time in Ireland.